San Diego County a popular destination for surfers of all levels

By: SCOTT BAIR - Staff Writer | Saturday, July 7, 2007 11:04 PM PDT ∞

Sean Brown had a long drive ahead and no time to spare. The 18-year-old already had his car's engine running as he changed from wet suit to street clothes in the parking lot.

He had to kick start his 60-mile trek from Encinitas to his Irvine home in order to keep his plans for the evening. Time, gas, money and stress could have been saved had Brown stopped at any number of the Orange County surf spots he passed on his way to Swami's break, a journey that's no picnic on a Sunday in July.

Sitting in traffic is a sacrifice Brown is willing to make in order to surf in San Diego County, which has a unique, laid-back surf culture compared to ultra-competitive Orange County or Hawaii, where surfers can be extremely territorial.

"I come down every weekend, but it gets a lot more frequent in the summer," he said. "I just love this area. It's so much more relaxed than it is in O.C., and the surf is as good or better than it is up there."

San Diego County has more than 50 miles of coastline containing dozens of quality spots that produce waves for surfers of all types and ability levels. While San Diego generally is more accepting of all surfers, even here there are unwritten rules that must be followed in the lineup.

"Surfing is like driving on the freeway," said Gary Baum, a 59-year old lawyer from Encinitas who has been surfing in San Diego for more than four decades.

"You've got to know the rules of the road and abide by them. If you don't, someone's going to get hurt."

There is no handbook for riding waves. Surfers have to learn when and where to paddle out. They need to know how to establish proper position and gain ownership of a given wave. They need to know when to defer to another surfer.

Whether it's ignorance or bravado, these rules are sometimes ignored. When surfers cut each other off, fight to ride the same peak or drop right behind another rider, accidents can happen and flaring tempers can create a salt-water version of road rage.

"That's normally when the trash talking starts," Oceanside lifeguard Brandon Stone said. "It can get kind of tense in the water sometimes, especially when it's crowded. But it only gets physical once or twice a year. Most of the time they just scream at each other."

It seems silly to fight over waves when the ocean is free and surf is plentiful. Quality conditions, however, are not always abundant.

Locals who frequent a certain break often claim ownership of it. When the surf is good, they want it all to themselves. They don't respond kindly to the flock of newcomers poaching premium surf.

Escondido resident Jimmy Brand saw an example of how serious surfing can get.

"I've never been a part of anything like that," said the 24-year old student, who makes the trek to the beach about three times a week. "But I have been out when some guy took a wave he shouldn't have and got his lights knocked out."

Brown is always the new kid when he heads into the lineup. That experience has taught him how to adapt to the surroundings and appease the locals, all while collecting some quality surf.

"I let a lot of good waves go by, especially when I first get out there," Brown said. "I pick my spots carefully, but I haven't really been hassled that much. I've found that if you treat others with respect they'll normally give it back."

Surfers learn the rules either through experience or instruction.

Surf camps are sprinkled throughout the region, some of which teach both etiquette and technique. Jon Peterson's Surfin Fire is one of those camps. Peterson, an Encinitas resident, teaches Surfing 101 and also spells out surfing's unwritten code for his students.

"I think it's important to teach all aspects of surfing," Peterson said. "We teach them about swell directions, weather and how to deal with a crowded lineup. We'll actually put a bunch of students out at once so they get used to surfing in that situation. It's good for everyone if the beginners know what to do out there."

Tension is also diffused by the sheer volume of surf spots. La Jolla Shores, Oceanside Pier and Encinitas' Moonlight Beach offer ideal training waters for beginners. Veteran shortboarders typically assemble at prime spots such as Trestles in San Onofre and La Jolla's Black's Beach and Cardiff Reef. Longboarders have their own hot spots, such as San Elijo and Swami's.

That variety, in combination with locals' solid knowledge of surf culture, creates the generally relaxed vibe that intrigues outsiders and separates this area from others. By all accounts, that attitude has only gotten better over time.

"It was a lot more hassle-oriented in the '70s, and localism was a lot more prevalent than it is now," said Carmel Valley appraiser Tim Senneff Sr., a longtime competitive surfer. "There's a good energy in the water most of the time, which is kind of encouraging.

"It's still competitive when a bunch of surfers are going after quality waves in a condensed area, but it's a different type of vibe. ... It's friendly and competitive at the same time."

Contact staff writer Scott Bair at (760) 739-6642 or sbair@nctimes.com.

Surfing etiquette

> Person nearest to the peak has priority.

> Give a wave, take a wave.

> If someone's surfing down the line, paddle into the whitewater.

> Surf waves within your ability.

> Respect the locals.

> Don't drop in after someone is already on the wave.

Around the County

Trestles

Unique features: There are three distinct breaks here, called Uppers, Lowers and Middles. Each features a high-performance wave, which also attracts huge crowds almost all year long.

Optimal season: Any time

Who surfs here: Everyone takes advantage of one of the finest breaks in the nation.

Ability needed to survive: Intermediate

How to get there: Take I-5 to Baslione and turn left. Go right into the San Onofre State Park parking lot. Walk down the trail and across the train tracks to reach the water.

Fun fact: The Boost Mobile Pro, the only World Championship Tour contest in the mainland U.S., is held at Lower Trestles every September.

Oceanside Harbor

Unique features: It's a beach break with solid surf in between two jetties that typically holds form.

Optimal season: Any time

Who surfs here: Shortboarders. Lots of 'em.

Ability needed to survive: Novice

How to get there: Take I-5 to Oceanside Harbor Drive and go west. Stay left once you enter the Harbor. Continue until you reach the beach. Parking is all around.

Fun fact: Oceanside Harbor is the northern-most beach break in San Diego County.

Oceanside Pier

Unique features: This is a popular contest site because of easy access and the ability to accommodate large crowds. It's slightly inconsistent, but it can get good when the wind dies down and the swell is right.

Optimal season: Any time

Who surfs here: Pretty much everyone.

Ability needed to survive: Not much.

How to get there: Take I-5 to Mission Boulevard and go west. There are parking lots all around the beach.

Fun fact: This is a major contest site, including the bodysurfing world championships.

D Street

Unique features: Quiet spot that's rarely crowded, but can produce a fantastic wave. As it is at most good breaks, the crowds will come when the surf is good.

Optimal season: Summer and winter

Who surfs here: Locals

Ability needed to survive: Intermediate

How to get there: Take I-5 to Encinitas Boulevard and go west. Turn left onto 101. Turn right on D Street. There is no assigned parking, so you'll have to park on the street. Take the D Street stairs to the beach.

Swami's

Unique features: Premier point break that a produces a slow-rolling wave. Swami's is one of the most popular, well-known spots in San Diego and it can get extremely crowded.

Optimal season: Fall and winter

Who surfs here: Local longboarders regularly and just about everyone when it gets big.

Ability needed to survive: Intermediate to advanced.

How to get there: Take I-5 to Encinitas Boulevard. Go south. Turn right on 101. Turn right before Swami's Temple. That will lead to a small, ever-crowded parking lot. Take the stairs down to the beach.

Fun fact: Swami's nickname derives from Self-Realization Fellowship Temple founder Paramahansa Yogananda's membership in the Swami Order.

San Elijo (Pipe's)

Unique features: This is a spot where the surf generated by a reef remains fun even when the waves are small. The form is often better when the waves are smaller to moderate in size.

Optimal season: Winter

Who surfs here: Longboarders

Ability needed to survive: Intermediate

How to get there: Take I-5 to Birmingham and go west. Go left on San Elijo; make a right on Chesterfield and then a left on 101. Turn left into the parking lot.

Cardiff Reef

Unique features: This is a reef break that holds form when the swell picks up. There are varied wave styles at this break, which can get crowded at peak times.

Optimal season: Fall and winter

Who surfs here: The wave suits all sorts of surfers.

Ability needed to survive: Intermediate to advanced.

How to get there: Take I-5 to Birmingham and go west. Go left on San Elijo; make a right on Chesterfield and then a left on 101. Drive a half-mile or so and turn left into the parking lot.

Fun fact: You can often find surfing icon Rob Machado surfing at Cardiff, his home break.

Black's

Unique features: This might be the best beach break in San Diego County. There are a variety of peaks here, so there's something for everyone. That also guarantees that some crowds will come, despite the long walk to the beach.

Optimal season: Winter.

Who surfs here: Surfers of all kinds.

Ability needed to survive: Advanced

How to get there: Take I-5 to Genesee and go west. Turn left on Torrey Pines Road and park in the Torrey Pines Glider Port lot.

Fun fact: Black's is also a nude beach.

Big Rock

Unique features: This is a mean, left-rolling break that can produce some awesome barrels. It is a heavy wave with an extremely shallow reef below. You've got to surf Big Rock at medium or high tide.

Optimal season: Winter

Who surfs here: Experts, locals, crazy people.

Ability needed to survive: Advanced

How to get there: Take the I-5 to the 52 West/Ardath Road exit. Ardath turns into Torrey Pines Road. Turn left on Girard and right on Pearl. Turn right on Nautilus and then left on Neptune.

Sunset Cliffs

Unique features: This popular spot near Ocean Beach and Point Loma has a number of varied peaks that have a lot to offer. This wave will hold up even when other spots are too big to hold form. Sharp rocks and harsh surroundings make this a spot for the experienced surfers.

Optimal season: Fall, winter.

Who surfs here: Lots of people, all the time.

Ability needed to survive: Advanced.

How to get there: Take I-5 to Sea World Drive. Turn right. Veer onto Sunset Cliffs and take it through Ocean Beach.

Fun fact: Living up to its name, Sunset Cliffs may be the best place to watch the sun go down.

---- Scott Bair

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