Directories
Quick Searches
Find a Job
Quick Search
For Employers
Yahoo! HotJobs Local Search
Big waves draw crowd to Swami's
By: PHILIP K. IRELAND and SARAH WILKINS - Staff Writer
Heavy weekend weather predicted; rain could start late tonight | ∞
A surfer gets covered by the white water as he zips along a the large green face a wave at Swami's in Encinitas on Wednesday.
HAYNE PALMOUR IV Staff Photographer
Order a copy of this photo
Visit our Photo Gallery
ENCINITAS -- Surfboard-snapping waves three to four times the height of the surfers who rode them drew hundreds of spectators to Swami's Beach on Wednesday morning in an impromptu festival celebrating the Pacific's majesty and power. 
View A Video
The high surf also caused some local flooding, heavy storm warnings for the weekend and instructions to exercise care around North County's beaches.
The bluff above the famous North County surf spot, known for its offshore point break and big waves, was the choice of hundreds of North County residents and ocean looky-loos armed with coffee, cameras, sweatshirts and binoculars.
Swami's, a grassy park with 100-foot Torrey Pines and king palms, is located next to the Self-Realization Fellowship campus in south Encinitas.
The high surf, the biggest so far this year, is the result of a storm system brewing 700 miles northwest of California, according to the state Department of Parks and Recreation.
A National Weather Service high-surf advisory is in place through Sunday. The waves could bring dangerous rip currents and flooding to low-lying areas, forecasters said.
The surf is expected to begin subsiding today, just as a strong storm moves in, bringing the potential for heavy rain, mudslides, flooding and snow, forecasters said.
Standing atop the seawall, lining the fence along the bluffs, and sitting on vans in the parking lot, the crowd watched as professional surfers and locals competed for a turn on storm-driven waves that lifeguards estimated at "15 feet plus."
The crowd of people, many craning their necks and standing on their toes for a better view, hissed a collective gasp at the near collision of two surfers vying for the same wave.
Twin sisters Athina and Niki Zarcades, both 33, came to watch surfers ride the big waves.
Athina, also a surfer, said she left her board "resting" at home.
"These waves are three times the height of me," said Athina, accompanied by her dog Riley, sporting a Christmas-red collar. "It's amazing, the amount of people who want to come watch Mother Nature in action."
Steve Edwards, a retired real estate agent from San Clemente, arrived early for an unobstructed view. He sat in his Volkswagen camper van, which was bedecked with poinsettias and a Christmas wreath of bright red berries.
"This is what retirement is all about -- giving the boys in the water some moral support," Edwards said. "The best thing about Christmas is the big waves."
A surfer himself, Edwards said he leaves these big waves to the young bucks.
"Us old guys just hang out and root them on," he said.
Traffic on Highway 101 was stop-and-go and the parking lot at Swami's was packed by 9 a.m. as a steady parade of surfers jogged down to the beach.
Officials advised all but the most able surfers to stay out of the water.
Offshore, about 100 wave-riders crowded the water above a submerged rocky point called the "peak" that causes waves to break more than 200 yards offshore. As the big waves rolled in, five or more surfers launched themselves down the face at the same time.
"These guys are as intense as the waves," surfer Jeff Sholk said. "It's just crazy. The surf's not that big where you've got to worry about the waves. (They are) handleable, but this amount of guys out takes the spirit out of it, and it's dangerous."
As of about 5 p.m. Wednesday, lifeguards had rescued at least three dozen surfers for a variety of reasons.
All seven full-time Encinitas lifeguards were on duty in addition to three seasonal guards called in to assist, said Encinitas Lifeguard Capt. Larry Giles.
Throughout the morning a half-dozen surfers climbed back up the stairs later carrying both halves of their broken boards -- testaments to the crushing power of rolling waves. Professional surfer Billy Harris said he snapped his Guy Takana board while trying to avoid a surfer on his wave and another paddling out.
Not to worry, said Harris, who works at the Ding King surfboard repair shop.
"It's no big deal to fix," he said. "And I've got tons of boards. This is just the one I knew I was going to break today."
The approaching storm could bring as much as three inches of rain to mountain areas, and one-third of an inch in the deserts, forecasters said. The storm could move in late tonight, but is expected to hit hardest Friday, with scattered showers continuing Saturday and Sunday.
The heavy rain poses a threat of flash flooding, as well as dangerous mudslides in areas burned by October's wildfires, authorities said. Crews have been setting up fiber rolls, sandbags and other devices to prevent erosion on North County hillsides, said Bill Polick, spokesman for the county Department of Public Works.
Efforts are heaviest in Fallbrook and Pauma Valley, the latter of which was hit by flooding and mud flows last week, authorities said.
"These areas have steep hillsides and were severely damaged (by fire) so they have very little vegetation to hold the soil in place," Polick said.
Polick also advised residents to keep a close eye on their surroundings and media reports on the weather.
"Pay attention to what's going on around (you)," he said. "Don't wait for Reverse 911. If you feel uncomfortable, get out."
Sandbags are available to residents at 28565 Cole Grade Road in Valley Center, 116 5th Street in Ramona and 2551 Olive Hill Road in Fallbrook. Residents may also have their property assessed for potential weather damage by calling (888) 846-0800.
Forecasters are also predicting 15 to 20 mph winds at the storm's front in the mountains and deserts. Local mountains could also receive up to a six inches of snow at elevations down to 4,000 feet, including Palomar Mountain, authorities said.
The storm could also drop funnel clouds and waterspouts on Saturday and Sunday, the weather service said.
-- Contact Philip K. Ireland at (760) 901-4043 or online at pireland@nctimes.com.
 Title: Huge waves arrive WednesdayDate: Dec. 5th, 2007 A pair of surfers ride huge waves and negotiate large crowds at Swami's in Encinitas on Wednesday. PLAY » |
More Stories
Advertisement
Concerned-1 wrote on Dec 5, 2007 11:14 AM:I still laugh whenever I see a story reporting the size of waves. "Waves up to 19 feet!" Or 16 feet. As an old surfer and veteran of major Hawiaan surf sans leach, when a real surfer says a wave is 10 feet, it more likely stands more than 15 feet. Who knows where this started but it's part of not wanting to say a wave is bigger than it is. Also, a wave is largest at its peak, from there it tapers off. But today's descriptions of waves being 19 or 16 or 17 feet is lame. We have always catagorized waves in size ranges. Six to eight feet, eight to 10, 10 to 12 and so on. Not an exact number. You'd never here someone getting out of the water and say "I caught a 16 footer!" And kooks need to stay out of the water when the waves get over six feet...period.
esteban wrote on Dec 5, 2007 11:29 AM:Concerned...what about when they also catergorize the waves as 16 feet "high"...that always made me laugh. BWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!!!!
Ridculous False Bravado wrote on Dec 5, 2007 11:30 AM:Hawaiian wave measurements are ridiculous. You use them in HI just like you spend Pesos in Mexico, but calling today 4-8 foot would be ridiculous. Swamis had wave faces over 15' this morning. What's lame is the false bravado of grossly underestimating the size of waves. In my experience, people only do that when they're looking directly at the wave. They'll never say a wave is more than 10' if you're looking at it with them. Oh! But that wave they caught a Blacks last Feb? 15' easy!
Jaque wrote on Dec 5, 2007 11:55 AM:To protect the innocent from getting in "over their heads," the authorities are considering banning folks from getting into the water. The safety of the average surfer is foremost in the reasoning. Just like wearing motorcycle helmets and stuff.
I was there today... wrote on Dec 5, 2007 11:57 AM:I'm on my lap-top right now, and I've just finished surfing today. I had been out at 5:30 A.M. just get a head start. Concerned...I have surfed in Hawaii at Waimea and Pipeline, and I can tell when waves are 15-20 feet high. Today, here at Swamis, the waves are definitely 15-20 feet! I still laugh at those old surfers with those old stories about real surfing... Just stories bra' Get out here today if you want to show how much of a "veteran" you are! I'm here and the waves are def. 15-20 feet.
Alf wrote on Dec 5, 2007 12:38 PM:I realize that it is an old and arcane term, but "kawabunga"!!!! Enjoy!! Mreey Christmas! Alf.
confusion wrote on Dec 5, 2007 12:43 PM:correct me if I am wrong (as if I need to say that on this board) but a 10' wave (measured from behind) could have a 15' face hence the notion of underestimating wave heights is really just confusion between which measurement is being used....
Oh Brother! wrote on Dec 5, 2007 12:45 PM:I was there, too. This swell just isn't that big. I'm calling it 12 foot max. What made it look bigger than it was was it was bumpy and fairly lined up. The wind and the color of the water/air made it spooky, too (misty). If you're calling today 15 - 20, what the heck size was big wednesday - 35 feet!?! Stop hyperventilating, and get real. I took off on an outsider well behind the palm trees, and the thing backed off! There were about 6 people down the line wanting to take off, and I though I was going to get burned, but they couldn't stay in it. Once on, I was surprised at how slow the wave peeled - easy to get to the shoulder. After the take off, the size nearly halved. Granted, not all of 'em were like that. As for hawaiian wave heights, you can't compare 'em to CA. Our waves tend to roll in slowly due to the continental shelf, so the back of the wave is not too much smaller than the face. In Hawaii, the waves come in so fast, and hit such a shallow reef, that the bottom of the face tends to drop down faster than the top of the wave face jacks up. As such, the face of the wave can be double or triple the size of the back. It's not uncommon to go to HI and surf uncrowded, fantastic 6 foot surf by CA standards, and no locals are out because it's only 2 foot. I do agree that using HI standards in CA is rather silly.
Dude wrote on Dec 5, 2007 12:48 PM:I got some great looks at the surfers out at Swami's this morning. Damned if most didn't have the same form as that statue they have been whining about.
Good day to learn? wrote on Dec 5, 2007 1:12 PM:Is today a good day to learn how to surf? I want my son to learn and it is so exciting to hear about this big surf. If the waves are as big as they say I bet he will have a good time and will be able to "catch" waves simply by holding on to his board. I know that real surfers don't wear life jackets but since he is only 10 he will do what we suggest because based on what I have been reading it can be a bit dangerous for those who do not have the proper equipment. Should I have him use his karate helmet too?
Concerned-1 wrote on Dec 5, 2007 1:14 PM:Yeah I knew I'd catch some flack from the xers. Here's the deal, I'm looking at the surf cam right now and it may be 10 feet. You newbees wouldn't know what to do if you saw a real 20 foot wave. But then everything is on steroids now days. Peace bros and just have fun.
Oh Brother! Please.... wrote on Dec 5, 2007 1:38 PM:Oh brother... You are just using surfing vocabulary. Don't try to pretend like ou were out there today bra' You know you weren't. Easily those waves were hitting 15-20 ft. Are you really serious! I can't wait to upload the video of it. You will really have to stop your lies then. I am from Hawaii bra' We knew the swells were coming in. These waves definitely compare to those in my hometown. ...
So Cal Native wrote on Dec 5, 2007 2:04 PM:Here we go again trying to decifer how big a wave actually is. The Hawaiians have actually classified there waves from behind and California has always classified the wave size by the front. Recently, Hawaiian news channels classify the waves by the front because, tourist were getting hurt thinking that it was not that big because of classifying the wave from behind. The correct way is from the front because, this is the size when paddling out in addition too, the military classification of wave size is from the front so, GET A CLUE! The waves today are in fact ranging from 10' to 15'faces which is the correct way of saying it. This is California and not Hawaii so, wave height is the FACE of the wave!
Concerned-1 wrote on Dec 5, 2007 2:08 PM:Yeah actually I personally don't have to worry about calling a wave six feet or ten feet anymore. At my age, I just measure in terms of knee high, chest high and overhead. Today it was overhead.
Pappy wrote on Dec 5, 2007 2:19 PM:Dude, this isn't a time for smart-alecky jabs like yours. We should all rejoice. This blog proves that evidently some of them have learned how to read and write! narley tubers bro
Who cares? wrote on Dec 5, 2007 2:43 PM:This country is killing people in Iraq for nothing. Wake up. Surf less.
To Good Day to Learn... wrote on Dec 5, 2007 2:58 PM:Actually, today is a good day to learn how to swim in strong currents. He will not be catching any waves - the waves will catch him. Make sure the karate helmet floats or you'll end up with a drowned rat. Be careful, because if he survives, you will have turned him into "a surfer", and we will want to do nothing else. He will begin to ditch school, talk a funny language, listen to wierd music, develop large shoulders, will leave his wet, stinky wetsuit in all sorts of horrible places, and be sullen and unreconcileable during long periods of no waves. He will also skateboard, and will be on a first name basis with all emergency medical personnel within a 10 mile radius. By all means, today is a great day to learn!!!!
Concerned-1 wrote on Dec 5, 2007 3:04 PM:To Good day to learn. Stick to your Kelly Slater surf game and keep your 10-year old far away from the ocean. ... Hoka Hai!
To I Was There wrote on Dec 5, 2007 3:06 PM:No, you're kidding me. You can't for a moment tell me that Swamis is the same as Sunset at the same size. Swami's doesn't even have a lip! Swami's doesn't even compare to Wind n sea or Blacks at the same time!! I don't doubt you were there, and I don't doubt you're from the islands, but come on, Swami's has always been known an an old man's spot. The only reason it's popular is that is can hold size. I'm laughing - taking a 10 foot swami's wave on the head is the same as taking a 10 foot Wind'n or Blacks wave on the head? Forget about comparisons to Hawaii, dude. What, you from Barbers Point, brah?
Kook wrote on Dec 5, 2007 4:27 PM:Too bad those of us unable to get to the beach can't "take advantage of massive waves" by viewing pics. Where are the pics? Maybe they'd settle the disputes here.
Cj wrote on Dec 5, 2007 4:33 PM:Not sure the argument is really worth the time, but why not: I think most of you know it just depends on whether you feel like measuring from the back or the face. I watched people drop in on double-overhead and triple-overhead faces this morning. Who cares what number you want to throw at it. And Swamis and Sunset have their own characteristics, and on some days 10 ft. Swami's will be better than 10 ft. Sunset. Same with all the breaks you feel like mentioning. Swami's is not an old man's wave, its just crowded with old men because of the location and because most of the time its a perfect longboard right. Admit it, they are all great breaks and we all wish it was 10 ft. with no one out. Peace.
Karl wrote on Dec 5, 2007 5:01 PM:Kawabunga back at you Alf. I'm not getting back out until it's back to "ankle slappers". More power to you studs that can paddle out in this surf. You guys amaze me by your athletic ability.
Beastie wrote on Dec 5, 2007 5:52 PM:Sure, take your kid out to learn to surf today. It will be natural selection at its finest.
Old, bad surfer wrote on Dec 5, 2007 7:17 PM:Here we go again. Same as 35 years ago: back, face, whatever. As Taylor Knox (who should know) said, "I never saw anyone ride the back of a wave". How about small, big, medium, large and $#@*^%? BIG. And get over the ego trip, it's supposed to be fun.
karen wrote on Dec 5, 2007 7:36 PM:I LOVE all of you. Surfing is living, whether an old guy (those of you I catch in the early AM on my walk in Carlsbad) or a youngster. You all ride the waves, and it is beautiful, joyous even, to watch. Don't make it too academic, I beg. I'm learning. signed, the professor
The public demands it wrote on Dec 5, 2007 7:52 PM:The Cardiff surfer statue was awarded the "onion" award as apposed to the more desirable "orchid" award. It is time for the Artist to step forward & replace his blunder with a stylish long boarder,with the city picking up the cost of materials.
esteban wrote on Dec 6, 2007 7:35 AM:To who cares...we are killing people in Iraq for a reason. Leave your liberal commie views out of a surf story. And speaking of surf...why is this such a big story? Has there never been a good size swell in CA before? Everyone's acting like this is a once in a lifetime swell!!! Remember '98!?!?!?!?!
punks.... wrote on Dec 6, 2007 7:47 AM:surfing is for girls and little boys. Who cares about surfing? I think they should outlaw it since it is so harmful to the environment. I'm always pushing my elected representatives to enact more restrictions upon surfers. I laugh when parking to surf spots is made more restrictive or chganged over to pay-to-park.
FTM wrote on Dec 6, 2007 8:01 AM:It's not a day for me to surf. My 9 foot board goes in a straight line right for the beach. The problem is not the board, it's the old guy on top of it. I just paddle until the board go fast, then I stand up. (I stand up straight, not all cool and hunched over like the good surfers). When the board stops going forward I step off. (Usually into hip deep water). The local Malouvians near the Army Navy acadamy usually chase me off if I walk on the beach. The locals are pretty cool as long as I keep my canoe away from thier little sticks. These waves are way too big for me.
Abbie wrote on Dec 6, 2007 10:26 AM:Check out the photos in the Slide Show on the NCTimes.com front page...great shots!
What? wrote on Dec 6, 2007 10:50 AM:It isn't the huge waves that scare me, it is the huge crowds on the break. I bet you could walk around out there and not even get your shorts wet. When I was going out I would consider 5 or 6 guys on a break crowded. Yesterday there were that many dropping in on every wave!
Beastie wrote on Dec 6, 2007 12:04 PM:Hey Esteban... We're talking about surfing, not politics. But since you brought it up I will say that 99% of the surfers I know are peace loving environmentalists who don't want their waters polluted by big business... Stay on topic... Ha.... ... ..
HB83 wrote on Dec 6, 2007 1:16 PM:Being an old timer it reminds me of the storm of 83. I was one of very few surfers out surfing HB in 83 when the piers got destroyed. There was no life guard with a wave runner to save you it was just you and the ocean. I am glad that the life guards have them now because of the lives that were saved yesterday. When it comes to measuring waves for me it is knee high, shoulder high, over head double overhead, and where is my camera? :D Does any one know where to get some pictures of Huntington beach pier with the waves crashing over the top?
BW wrote on Dec 6, 2007 2:14 PM: WOW, THIS SURF IS SMALL IF YOU LOOK AT THE YEARS PAST LIKE THE YEAR THE SURF PUSHED THE BAIT BOAT 40'OR MORE INTO THE SOUTH JETTY AT THE OCEANSIDE HARBOR AT 4AM AND BROKE INTO 2' SQ WHICH WERE ALL OVER THE BEACH IT WAS GOING OUT TO FISH AND THE NET WAS WASHED OVER THE STERN AND GOT IN THE PROP,WAVES OUTSIDE THE HARBOR 20' +
Arizona transplant wrote on Dec 6, 2007 2:46 PM:I'm learning to surf, and just wanted to thank all of you guys who were at Swamis Wednesday for sharing some waves with me. Sorry I ran some of you over, but at least my board is soft, right? It was great hanging out with so many enthusiastic people, but I really couldn't make out what it was you were all yelling all the time... right? left? coool? barfy? what?... Anyway, I'm really going to need a wetsuit next time. Brrr.
to the editor wrote on Dec 6, 2007 3:34 PM:The headline in the paper today, not the web but the real deal paper, calls the surfers beach bums. That is so inappropriate- are you too young to remember the negative connotation to being called a beach bum? These surfers all have jobs and a life besides surfing...well almost 100% of them do anyway, just like me.
Jim wrote on Dec 6, 2007 3:56 PM:esteban - I'm 15 years old and don't remember the 98 waves all that well. Thanks for the fun story NCTs.
Be careful wrote on Dec 6, 2007 6:25 PM:And now with everyone using trifins there is even more of a chance someone will do a "Jerry Lopez" and land butt first on a fin. I don`t even want to think about it. Maybe wetsuits should be reinforced with kevlar
- ESCONDIDO: Man shot dead at Fourth of July party (10463)
- TEMECULA: Protesters line intersection (6482)
- ESCONDIDO: 3 DUI arrests, 46 impounds at checkpoint (5254)
- ESCONDIDO: Border Patrol employee in custody after hatchet attack (5003)
- ESCONDIDO: City's dreams of an 'upscale' downtown may be dying (4895)
- HOUSING: Local median price up for third straight month (45)
- ESCONDIDO: Man shot dead at Fourth of July party (44)
- FALLBROOK: Peruvian chocolatier living sweet American dream (29)
- ESCONDIDO: Border Patrol employee in custody after hatchet attack (28)
- ESCONDIDO: Victim's roommate recalls July 4 shooting, friends gather for vigil (27)
Advertisement