Around the world in 500 days: From the elegance of Paris to the beauty of Greece

By: KAITLIN and THOMAS GERTZ - For the North County Times | Saturday, January 5, 2008 8:17 PM PST ∞

Editor's Note: Kaitlin and Thomas Gertz of San Diego are on a 16-month around-the-world trip in which they plan to visit 50 countries. They are sharing the experience with North County Times readers every month. Visit their stories online at http://www.nctimes.com/travel/.

Paris, Days 147-152:

The month of October began with Paris, where unfortunately we began a sequence of two horrible hotels that were not as advertised. Things can change quickly when traveling. We had been enjoying the company of our friends in Florence and now found ourselves stranded in a neighborhood we didn't know. When we finally found a third hotel, opening the door to a nice, clean suite brought us more joy than any other sight in Paris at that moment!

Paris has everything a traveler could ask for ---- museums, parks, monuments, churches and castles filled with history. It also possesses a strong sense of identity, as small, privately owned shops and restaurants outnumber large international chains. Paris was the apex of any culinary experience we have had on our trip thus far, with fresh crepes, croissants and baguettes being only part of the magic.

Walking along the south bank of the Seine River to reach the Cathedrale de Notre Dame, we were impressed by the church's medieval architecture and famed stained-glass rose windows. The beautiful white onion-domed Basilique du Sacre-Coeur at the city's highest point was also a highlight. Some great street performers and tremendous views can be found here, although unfortunately, so can many con artists.

The next day, we saw the massive Arc de Triomphe, built by Napoleon, before we sought out the best picnic spot, with Parc Monceau and the bank of the Seine being two top contenders. We couldn't have chosen a better time of year to visit,. The Champs-Elysees was lined with the colorful browns and yellows of fall foliage, and almost no other tourists.

Next was the Eiffel Tower, which was truly dazzling. We have been to the top of dozens of buildings in cities all around the world, but the view from the tower at sunset offered a truly memorable experience. We also made our planned time in Africa a bit easier by getting our Tanzania visa in Paris, which turned out to be surprisingly easy.

Our final stop was the palace of Versailles, best known as the royal residence of King Louis XIV and his queen, Marie Antoinette, about a half-hour outside Paris. The interior was an intricately detailed sprawl of royal rooms and banquet halls and included the incomparable Hall of Mirrors, where the Treaty of Versailles ending World War I was signed. Outside, huge fountains and statues looked out over endless immaculate gardens and lakes. It was easy to find areas with no one else around where you could imagine yourself as the king or queen enjoying a private moment. We also felt that the Petit Hameau (little hamlet), Marie Antoinette's rustic private retreat, was a true gem, with its 18th-century cottages surrounding a small lake and lovely gardens.

Western/southern Italy, Days 153-164:

After Paris, we headed back into Italy, where our first stop was the Cinque Terre, an area of five villages nestled on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. We timed our visit there to coincide with that of some friends from the Florence wedding and shared a little apartment with them, where we cooked dinner and drank wine each night. We took a scenic boat ride from the fifth town, Riomaggiore, where we were staying, all the way to the first town, Monterosso, and spent the day hiking back. After a few hours of hiking, we reached a secret beach where we had planned to meet with our friends. We soon found out that it was a nudist beach, but this didn't stop us from cooling off in the crystal clear waters (yes, in swimsuits). We then had lunch on the beach and giggled at the Italian men strutting by. Our hike finished through the towns of Corniglia, Manarola and along the final stretch known as Lover's Lane.

Our next stop was Naples, a city whose chaotic reputation proved warranted: Mopeds and thousands of people whizzed around us in every direction. We ventured out in search of Gino's Sorbillo, one of the best pizza places in the city that claims to be the birthplace of pizza. Surrounded by boisterous Italians enjoying the night, Gino's didn't let us down with its brick-oven-style pizza ---- a paper-thin crust topped with spicy Diavola salami.

The next day we visited nearby Pompeii, an ancient Roman city of more than 12,000 people that was caught by surprise and entombed by the deadly eruption of still-active Mount Vesuvius in A.D. 79. The sheer size of the unearthed city ---- almost fully intact ---- astounded us. Hundreds of blocks of excavated homes, state buildings, amphitheaters, mosaics, statues and paintings lined the streets, and the entire scene looked eerily similar to the cities of today.

On to the Amalfi Coast, where we were greeted with a drive on unbelievably winding cliff-edge roads that left our heads spinning. Compared to Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast is much larger and more posh, but offers more diversity if you plan to stay for a few days. For example, one day we took a steep walk up a stairway from Minori to reach the more hidden and secluded town of Ravello. The path led us to Villa Cimbrone, whose incomparable views and special Old World charm helped make this town our favorite here.

The true highlight on the Amalfi Coast was hiking the Pathway of the Gods, which hugged the coastline for several hours before leading down to the town of Positano. The hike proved worthy of its name, as it undulated through beautiful farms and vineyards and passed through picturesque towns filled with sweeping ocean views. We had an eagle's-eye perspective of the whole landscape as we soared more than 2,000 feet above the Mediterranean. The grand finale was descending 1,700 stairsteps to Positano, nestled on the beach, to nurse a gelato and relax while watching the sunset.

Our final stop in Italy was Sicily, where we were lucky enough to stay with a relative of one of Kaitlin's past clients, a woman who was in the U.S. Navy. Her lovely countryside flat reminded us of our own home with the familiar foods and products that she got from the military base. After five months on the road, it felt a little odd to go out to dinner with a group of friends and talk about topics that used to seem familiar. Our trip was now reaching a point where it felt more normal to be constantly traveling than going out to dinner with fellow Americans.

We made sure to visit Mount Etna, Sicily's live volcano. Its eruptions are legendary, and the most recent was less than a month ago, when large amounts of lava sprayed like fireworks in the sky. We caught a gondola about two-thirds of the way up the mountain, and then drove in a massive truck near the top. We were able to see some smoke, smell the pungent volcanic air, and look into some of the craters of this eerie moonscape.

Driving back to Catania, we ended up having the true southern Italy driving experience. We took a wrong turn into the city and found ourselves in streets with no lanes that randomly combined and separated. Helping make the transition from chaos to sheer madness was the unending supply of mopeds coming from behind us, from the side and straight at us before they veered aside to avoid hitting us. After barely escaping, we were ready to catch our flight to Greece.

Greece, Days 165-177:

Traveling with our good friend, Tim, gave us a huge energy boost. We first got a cheap rental car and drove to Delphi, where we checked into a good hotel for $12 per person. The friendliness of the Greeks was instantly revealed when we got directions from someone who we later found out was the mayor. Seeing the rock outcropping of the oracle at Delphi, where generals, kings and others sought revelation, was amazing. Huge slabs of white marble with Greek carvings were still visible, as were the Temple of Apollo, a theater and an ancient stadium.

Later that evening, we were shocked to find a parking ticket on our windshield and no license plates! After tracking down the local cops, we were told that to get our plates back, we would have to pay the ticket on Monday, which was two days after we had to return the rental car in Athens. After extensive pleading on our part, one cop agreed to give us our plates back. We didn't delay one minute in driving out of town.

On the way to Crete, we stopped by the National Archaeological Museum in Athens for an important overview of Greek history. We then took a ferry to Crete, which we found quite nice, contrary to what we had heard from others about the Greek ferry system. Arriving in Hania after the six-hour ride, we enjoyed the town's picturesque harbor and lighthouse. Checking the Internet that evening, we stumbled across the international news of fires raging throughout San Diego fairly close to our home. It was one of the few times on our trip that we wished to be home so we could assure that everyone we knew was safe.

The next day, we went to Elafonisi Beach on the west coast, where majestic mountains stood behind a conglomeration of islands linked by the Mediterranean's clear, shallow waters.

Another must-see on Crete was the city of Knossos, which at more than 3,500 years old held one of the most extensive remnants of the ancient Minoans. Unfortunately, English archaeologist Arthur Evans, who discovered the ruins, took many liberties in re-creating them. Knossos and the accompanying museum in Iraklion were still amazing to see, though, with buildings several stories tall, elaborate frescoes and advanced drainage systems.

One big reason we came to Crete was to hike the Samaria Gorge, the longest in Europe. The 10-mile, one-way hike descended more than 4,000 feet, starting in the mountains before it wound down steep cliffs. The end of the gorge close to the ocean was the most dramatic, as unusually shaped walls hundreds of feet high took on an orange hue and closed within 10 feet of each other.

Next was Santorini, where we were greeted by high, steep volcanic cliffs on all sides. Our hotel in the town of Imerovigli was the nicest we had stayed in during almost six months on the road, and nothing could have prepared us for the views from our patio. We were astounded that the buildings were able to cling to the cliffs without falling into the impossibly blue waters below. The whole northwest coast seemed far more fitting for a dream rather than being tethered to reality. The ocean views were inescapable, and all concerns or attachments to normal life disappeared with the setting sun into the ocean as we ate dinner from our patio with some of the local cats.

The next day, we took an all-day boat ride to various spots, including the live volcano in the middle of the crescent-shaped island. It was here where the cataclysmic volcanic eruption of 1640 B.C., the largest in recorded human history, completely buried the lost city of Akrotiri and led to the eventual end of the Minoan civilization. We also swam in some nearby hot springs warmed by the volcano and visited the undeveloped island of Thirasia for some great views. The journey ended in the town of Oia, which was the most picturesque and overpriced town on the island.

Coming in the off season had countless advantages. We found that in addition to our hotel, which we got for one-third of the peak season price, almost everything was open to price negotiation, including rental cars and souvenirs. All concerns seemed to melt into the horizon during our time in Santorini, the most carefree destination we have been to in the last half-year. We woke up each day with the only deadline being that we had eight or nine hours until sunset. In fact, we went two full days in Santorini without knowing the correct time, because of the daylight-saving time change!

Taking the ferry back to Athens, we explored a great city that seemed clean and rejuvenated after the recent Olympics. We hit another home run with our location, as we got the penthouse of our hostel, with a great view of the Acropolis, for half the cost of the summer rates. The food was fantastic ---- at one place we got awesome gyros for less than two euros each.

The Acropolis was filled with ancient Greek temples and buildings, and all of the major sites could be entered over multiple days with one combination ticket for only 12 euros. Countless ruins were scattered through the city, but the Parthenon was definitely the highlight, with its giant marble columns and perfect symmetry. Some of the greatest figures in Western civilization once roamed these grounds, from Socrates and Aristotle to Caesar, and this is where what we know as classical thought on topics from philosophy to democracy was first developed.

Greece's treasures were impossibly varied and definitely worthy of a return visit. As we said goodbye to Tim before starting a 24-hour train ride for Turkey, we realized how much we were missing everyday relationships between family members, friends and co-workers. Conversing with people from other countries has proved very rewarding, but there was something special about talking with close friends.

That said, we were very glad that we scheduled a break around the new year, as we knew that we would need one in a couple of months. But for now, we were excited at the prospect of venturing outside Europe for the first time in six months.

Best Place to Stay:

Irini's Villas, Imerovigli, Santorini, Greece ---- Unparalleled view of Santorini with the caldera view. The prices are less than half during the off season, and the location can't be beat. Phone: 22860 23832; www.irini-villas-santorini.com.

Hotel Metropolis, Athens, Greece ---- Amazing location with a full view of the Acropolis from most rooms. Mitropoleos 46, in the Syndagma district, #210 321 7469.

Best Food:

Savvas, Athens, Greece ---- Try the delicious gyros served on the fly for only two euros. One will keep you filled up all day. Mitropoleos 86, in the Monastiraki district. Open 8:30 a.m. to 3 a.m.

Crepes of the World, Athens, Greece ---- Best crepes we have had in Europe. To save a few euros, take your crepe to go. Areopagitou 3, in the Plaka. Open 7 a.m. to 3 a.m.

Gino Sorbillo, Naples, Italy ---- For as little as three euros, enjoy a pizza in a great sit-down atmosphere, but expect some waiting. Via. dei Tribunali 32 ---- # 081 44 66 43. Open noon to 3:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 7 to 11:30 p.m. Sunday.

Don't miss:

Samaria Gorge, Crete, Greece ---- Ten-mile hike through the longest gorge in Europe, sculpted by 14 million years of rains. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily May through October when weather permits. Must catch the early bus from Hania to Xyloskalo; also an option for "Samaria the Easy Way."