ACTION SPORTS: Life Rolls On allows disabled people to surf

By SCOTT BAIR - Staff Writer | Tuesday, March 11, 2008 1:30 PM PDT ∞

LA JOLLA ---- Matthew Wild hadn't been surfing in four years, a major layoff for someone who'd been riding waves most of his life.

Butterflies overcame the Carlsbad resident as he analyzed Sunday morning's swell, an unexpected addition to a pre-surf routine performed hundreds of times. Feelings of nervousness and excitement overcame him, moments before Wild reclaimed a part of his life stolen by tragedy.

Surfing was an achievement considered impossible after an accident that left Wild paralyzed from the neck down. He severely injured his spine diving into a swimming pool in May 2003, just weeks before graduating from Santa Fe Christian School.

It was a horrifying turn that sapped both Wild's athletic gifts and his independence. Wild's traumatic detour took a small, yet positive turn thanks to Life Rolls On, an organization that, among other charitable works, teaches quadriplegics and paraplegics how to surf.

The most recent "They Will Ride Again" session was held at La Jolla Shores and attended by 27 disabled people looking for a slice of normalcy.

That was especially true for Wild, who has tamed famous breaks from here to Hawaii. Several trained volunteers, including Wild's sister, Sarah, and longtime friend Brandon Resch, escorted the 23-year old into the surf for a 20-minute session.

"It's been a long time since I've been in the water, so that in itself was a great experience," said Wild, who also starred on the Eagles basketball team that won a CIF San Diego Section title in 2003. "It's completely different than the surfing I'm used to, but it was still awesome to be a part of it again."

Wild rode three waves while on his stomach, perched on his elbows. It's different than traditional surfing style, but there were a few unmistakable similarities that Wild didn't expect.

"The rush you get right when you drop in (on a wave) felt the same as it always did," Wild said. "It was obviously a different experience, but that initial feeling doesn't change."

It's a sensation Wild expected to miss forever, until a surf video gave him hope. The movie "Step Into Liquid" features a segment with Life Rolls On founder Jesse Billauer, a once-promising rider paralyzed in a surfing accident.

The Carlsbad resident created a new way to ride waves and keep his passion for surfing alive. He has become a celebrity in the surf community and has inspired hundreds to remain active despite their disability.

"I always believed in myself," Billauer said. "I always hoped Life Rolls On would grow every year, and it clearly has. It's amazing to see so many people come together and create a wonderful vibe and positive energy at the beach."

Dave King is a regular at these events, despite being an able-bodied individual. King and his son, Austin, come out to help physically challenged surfers live out a dream. King leads a team of 15 volunteers strategically placed throughout the break to catch a rider should they fall.

"Our volunteers work hard to make this event possible and keep the surfers safe," King said. "It's physically exhausting, but it's totally worth it.

"It's one of the best, most rewarding things I've ever done. There's nothing quite like seeing a newcomer rider on their first wave. I'm a big snowboarder, but I'd sacrifice my entire snow season for just one of these events."

Patrick Ivison is also a regular. The 13-year old has surfed numerous times since seeing "Step Into Liquid" five years ago.

"I went home from the theater and e-mailed Jesse right away," Ivison said. "I got a response within a couple hours and a month later, I was out surfing with him."

He has become a Life Rolls On ambassador since then, encouraging kids like him to remain active. That has been a priority for Ivison, who has been wheelchair-bound most of his life.

He was run over by a car at 14 months old, crushing his spine and injuring other vital organs after a motorist slammed his car in reverse without realizing Ivison and his mother were behind him.

Ivison defied all odds and survived the incident. He grew up with a positive outlook and found his calling with Life Rolls On. He attends most events and passes his wisdom on to the newcomers, who come from far and wide to participate.

"Surfing is one of my favorite things," Ivison said. "It's something I think everyone should try, whether they're in a wheelchair or not. It was a little scary at first, but now I love it. I guarantee that anyone else who gives it a shot will agree."

Wild is officially hooked. He learned quite a bit from his first experience and was already excited about his next session.

"I didn't have any expectations heading into this," he said. "It all happened really fast, but it was a fantastic experience. My biggest challenge was simply staying upright. If I can figure that out, I think I'll be set. Then I'll be able to go out with some buddies as opposed to needing all these people."

The action sports report runs every Tuesday. To suggest story ideas or report local event, contact staff writer Scott Bair at (760) 739-6642 or sbair@nctimes.com. Comment at sports.nctimes.com.

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