REGION: Turkey takeout likely for some residents

Restaurateur says he keeps price low to weather recessions

By RENEE RAMSEY - For the North County Times | Sunday, November 23, 2008 10:08 PM PST ∞

NORTH COUNTY ---- Not every family will spend part of Thanksgiving Day in the kitchen. Dozens of North County restaurants will be open for business Thursday, serving up traditional dinners that range from down-home to upscale menus. Plus, they do the dishes.

For the third year, the 101 Cafe in Oceanside is keeping the price of its traditional turkey dinner at a bargain: $9.95.

Dinner already is being served, owner John Daley said. His holiday special appeared on the menu earlier this month and will remain available through Jan. 1.

"Our turkey dinners are very popular," Daley said, adding that he also offers "takeout" turkey dinners for families who want to eat at home but not do the cooking.

In this tough economy, Daley said keeping prices low is part of a strategy that has helped him weather four recessions in his 20 years at the restaurant.

"It's just a matter of watching your numbers and being fair and reasonable," he said.

"This café saw the Great Depression," Daley added about Oceanside's oldest restaurant, which first opened in 1928.

At the higher end of holiday dinner prices, upscale diners this year will have their first opportunity to enjoy Thanksgiving dinner at a local AAA Five Diamond restaurant.

Addison at The Grand Del Mar in Carmel Valley on Nov. 14 became the first San Diego County restaurant to achieve the travel authority's highest rating.

Addison joins the prestigious ranks of the Belvedere in Beverly Hills, the Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco and four other California restaurants accorded the honor for 2009.

At $150 per person, or $285 with wine, it's apparently the priciest Thanksgiving dinner in these parts, but a bargain compared to other AAA Five Diamond restaurants.

For example, The French Laundry in California's Napa Valley charges $240 per person for its everyday nine-course dinner ---- without the wine ---- at a restaurant that only accepts reservations two months in advance.

At Addison, Executive Chef William Bradley said he is planning a seven-course holiday menu that offers a sophisticated take on traditional Thanksgiving fare.

"It's all about the classics that we've all grown up to love," Bradley said. For example, he said, "Everyone loves sweet potatoes."

One item on the menu will be sweet potato ravioli with smoked ham hock and shallot consommé. That traditional Thanksgiving staple, the cranberry, will be featured with a ginger-cured salmon and cranberry-orange confiture.

"The elements of tradition are there," said Bradley, a long-time collector of vintage cookbooks. "I have a tremendous respect for the past."

But his dishes probably are not what your grandmother served.

Bradford's roasted turkey will be served with cornbread puree with shaved black truffles and a sherry vinegar sauce.

In an era when cooking shows are nominated for Emmy awards and more cookbooks are making best-seller lists, Bradley said Americans are becoming more knowledgeable about food and more sophisticated in their tastes.

"It's amazing how far we've come as diners and chefs in the past five years," Bradley said. "Diners have become so educated about wine and food. That's who truly pushes great restaurants ---- great patrons."