Hoping to capitalize on what they see as a culinary trend back to the old-fashioned steakhouse, the Four Seasons Resort Aviara decided last December to open their Argyle restaurant for dinner with a new menu heavy on the beef.

"We already have an upscale Italian restaurant (Vivace) and the California Bistro with French flavors, so now the steakhouse makes us a complete golf resort," said Tony Pistillo, director of public relations. "Our guests wanted a third choice here at the resort and we saw a growth of upscale steakhouses."

To lead the transformation from a casual cafe with views overlooking the 18th green to a steakhouse at night, Kurtis Habecker, 32, of Murrieta was hired as executive chef. Habecker, who has had extensive experience as a chef working with the likes of Tim Goodell (voted Best New Chef 2000 by Food and Wine magazine), in Tucson at Soleil and at the St. Regis Resort in Monarch Beach, has put together a simple yet elegant steak and chops menu.

First courses include the Seared Rare Ahi Tuna With Papaya Seaweed Salad And Avocado And Tangerine Ponzu Dressing ($15), Steamed P.E.I. Mussels And Manila Clams In Saffron Ginger Broth ($16) and for the more traditional diner, the Baby Iceberg Lettuce Wedge With Ranch Dressing ($11), or the Endive Salad With Poached Pear And Cabralas Cheese ($12).

But it is the meat, and more specifically the beef, for which the Argyle hopes to make a name for itself. "About 90 percent of our customers order steak, and the wine list is custom-tailored for wines that complement steak," Pistillo said.

Three types of beef are offered: the Montana Legend Angus beef, Californian Brandt prime beef and the American Wagyu Angus. "We visited the Brandt farm, out in Brawley, and they really care about their product," Habecker said. Equally flavorful and natural, he said, is the Montana Legend beef. "It's a small ranch in Montana that produces really great beef too," he said. "They use no antibiotics, no hormones. It is all naturally grown and raised."

Each beef main course comes in a variety of cuts, from the New York to the T-bone and the finest of all, the filet mignon. Prices range from $28 for the Bistro Wagyu 8-ounce steak to the 8-ounce Wagyu filet mignon ($68). Each steak is accompanied with a choice of sauce, which comes on the side in a cast iron pot. The sauces are shallot and red wine; cognac and green peppercorn; blue cheese; bearnaise; lemon butter; foie gras; and signature Argyle steak sauce.

All the beef courses are served with a choice of steak knives on handmade cast-iron platters made by Staub, and served a la carte. And instead of a typical bread basket, popovers -- savory muffins reminiscent of Yorkshire pudding -- are served.

With the exception of the mushroom sofrito, which runs $9, all the other sides are $6.50 and include vegetables such as butternut squash, spinach, or asparagus; potatoes; a selection of mushrooms; or smoked beans or risotto.

Habecker said the signature potato tots are popular. They are made from golden potatoes pureed until the texture is like a pate choux pastry dough in texture, then deep-fried until puffy. Also popular are the fingerling potatoes with slices of spicy Bilbao chorizo. "We found a great purveyor of Spanish products," said Habecker. "They provide us with the Cabralas (cheese) and salumi (cured meats)."

In addition to the beef, the Argyle menu also offers a half roasted Jidori chicken ($26), Colorado lamb chops and most recently, a Kurobuta pork tenderloin of Berkshire pork. Julian apple fritters, vanilla bean creme brulee and a root beer float round out the dessert menu.

While the elegant clubhouse restaurant, with a different menu, remains open for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and for cocktails after a round of golf in the afternoon, it is also available on Sunday and Monday evenings for private functions.

The Argyle restaurant will be closed in June for a complete renovation, said Pistillo.

"The designers have just picked the fabrics and the furnishings," he said, adding that the restaurant will continue to seat 95 people inside and 72 outdoors on the patio. "Even the GM was involved in choosing the drapes and the flooring. It's going to look great and really complete the whole golf experience."

Contact staff writer Ruth Marvin Webster at (760) 740-3527 or rwebster@nctimes.com.

The Argyle Steakhouse

WHERE: The Four Seasons Aviara Clubhouse, 7447 Batiquitos Drive, Carlsbad

A free shuttle service from the main lobby of the resort is available.

HOURS: 6-10 p.m. Tues-Sat

COST: Entrees from $26-$54

CALL: (760) 603-6908