DEL MAR -- This year's San Diego County Fair kicks off today at the Del Mar Fairgrounds, a much-loved annual event guaranteed to clog freeways and arteries for 21 days.

More than 68,000 people attended last year's opening day, and today's debut is expected to bring at least that many. Certain to keep the turnstiles spinning are first-day admission tickets available for $1 through Friday with a purchase of $10 or more at Ralphs grocery stores.

The state Department of Transportation opened a new, northbound auxiliary lane Thursday on Interstate 5 from Del Mar Heights Road to Via de la Valle. The $3 million project was accelerated a year to help accommodate the increased freeway traffic that always comes with the fair, Caltrans officials said.

On Thursday, the 350-acre fairgrounds was bustling with activity. Workers assembled rides and booths, stocked shelves, and organized supplies as they shouted and laughed among themselves.

For many people, the best thing at the fair is the food. Some go for the new sensations, such as deep-fried Twinkies and Oreos. Others prefer old favorites.

Chuck Dugan, 64, of Alta Loma, stepped out of his office trailer Thursday at the fair's Chuck Wagon and Texas Style BBQ. Beside the door were a new, white, clothes washer and a dryer, and two 50-gallon barrels labeled "dirty aprons." He said he's been serving barbecued, smoked meats at the fair for 30 years.

Dugan said he and his 25 employees at the fair planned to barbecue about 2,000 pounds of brisket and 1,000 pounds of ribs for opening day. The brisket cooks for 24 hours, the ribs take 12 hours, all smoked with hickory.

"We put out a good product," he said. The original recipes, though altered over the years, were based on recipes used on cattle drives a century ago.

Over at the Fun Zone, Paul Anthony Nemeth, 19, of San Antonio, clipped stuffed animals to a chain at a water-pistol game booth. He said he's been to the San Diego County Fair (formerly the Del Mar Fair) every year of his life.

"My dad has games," Nemeth said. For the past four or five years he's helped his father work the games. Last year it was the basketball toss. This year, the water pistols.

"You're freshest on the first day of the fair," he said. "As it progresses it gets more stressful and tiring."

One thing for fairgoers to remember when playing the games, Nemeth said, is just to have fun.

"The idea is to have a good time," he said. "A lot of people come to win, but you either have to be good or get lucky. We can't give everybody the big toy."

Rob Fremont of San Diego was setting up carved statues, weather vanes, wind chimes and various household items at his booth in O'Brien Hall. A relative newcomer, he said it's his sixth year selling merchandise at the fair.

Sales are always good at the fair, Fremont said, adding that he hopes to do better this year because he moved his booth closer to the main gate.

"It seems like the economy is doing OK," he said. "All you can do is hope for the best."

The San Diego County Fair is the largest annual event in the county and the fifth largest fair in the United States, according to fair officials. This year's theme is a "Seussentennial Celebration" in honor of the 100th birthday of the late Theodor "Dr. Seuss" Geisel, who lived in La Jolla. Suessian paintings, signs and contests can be found throughout the fairgrounds.

The fair opens at 10 a.m. daily except Mondays, though it will be open on Monday, July 5, the final day of the fair. Extensive information about the fair, daily events, exhibits, entertainment and more is available at the Web site www.sdfair.com.

San Diego County Fair

Where: Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar

When: Friday through July 5, closed Mondays except for July 5.

Hours: Exhibits open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Fun Zone rides open until midnight.

Admission: $10.50 for adults, $6 for seniors 62 and older, $4.50 for kids 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under.

Parking: $7 per vehicle, $9 for recreational vehicles. Free parking available nearby with shuttle service.

Info: For daily events, exhibits, entertainment lineup, etc., see the Web site www.sdfair.com.

Contact staff writer Phil Diehl at (760) 943-2314 or pdiehl@nctimes.com.