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Wines and fast food not so outlandish a pairing

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With all the demands of a busy summer, it's often the case that there isn't enough time or even incentive to prepare a full dinner each evening. Fast food is one answer, and generally this turns out to be a better choice than a TV dinner. But, for those of us who consider a day without wine akin to a day without sunshine, this poses a problem.

Which specific wine best complements takeout food? Does chablis or chenin blanc go better with Col. Sanders' chicken? Which burgundy with Burger King? Pinot with pesto? Sangiovese with a Subway sandwich?

I informally picked the brains of several friends who frequent the more popular fast-food outlets and have an interest in wine, and here are the results: Off the bat, one can't ignore the Colonel and his ubiquitous KFC franchises. With the choice of "Original" or "Extra Crispy" now expanded, I tend to stick with what made the firm famous. My informants agree that the flowery, almost perfumelike nose of Thornton's 2004 Viognier ($29) would be an ideal companion for that fabled recipe of "secret herbs and spices." This wine's rich honeysuckle and pear flavors might offer a perfect match.

We occasionally stop by the local Taco Bell for a quick quesadilla. We got some recently and opened a bottle of Leonesse Cellars 2003 white riesling. What a treat! This $14 wine's delicate aromas and fresh fruit notes are best appreciated when served chilled. The short trip to the winery's charming town of Julian is always an opportunity to sample the outstanding apple pies that are produced there.

I checked with Mike Menghini, the genial winemaker at his eponymous winery, and his recommendation was Menghini Julian Gold, a Muscat Canelli low (8 percent) alcohol delight. It's $15 for a 375-ml bottle, and would be my suggestion, too.

Wendy's old fashioned rectangular hamburgers and Arby's roast beef sandwiches both benefit from red wines. I'd recommend Falkner Winery's 2003 Luscious Lips at $9.95. The label alone ought to make this blend of mostly sangiovese grapes sell, but Loretta and Ray Falkner have come up with more than a marketing ploy, as this red is indeed luscious. This is a sweet wine, but so are the soft drinks that usually accompany burgers and fries.

Dr. Bill Filsinger's 2003 gewurztraminer would be my choice for any Asian entree, especially the Kung Pao shrimp, beef and pork combination that is so popular at the local Peony Chinese takeouts. It's prepared spicy, Sichuan-style, with peanuts and water chestnuts. At $10.99, this award-winner wine is a bargain and its spicy varietal aroma and grapefruit/citrus finish makes it a great complement for such tangy foods.

Subway sandwiches offer a wide range of healthy fare for inside and outside dining. I asked Gus Vizgirda, the Maurice Car'rie winemaker, what he'd recommend with a Subway Turkey and all the trimmings. He immediately told me that he'd like to see this takeout meal kicked up a notch with an elegant wine, and his selection was the 2003 Maurice Car'rie sauvignon blanc. This tasty gem retails at $10.95 and has a clear fruity character.

Those who like their pizza with a glass of wine should find that Domino's Pepperoni Pizza (double pepperoni and extra cheese, please) goes well with Wilson Creek's 2001 sangiovese ($28.95). This is a special reserve wine with super tones of plum and raspberry. It's a savory, spicy red wine, made from the grape that is traditionally used for classic Italian chiantis.

With a fast-food outlet on just about every corner these days, there is no lack of opportunities to pair appropriate varietal wines with just about any takeout. I'd be interested in learning of the experiences of readers with foods from places such as In 'n' Out Burger, Carl's Jr., Quizno's, Del Taco, Wienerschnitzel, Jack in the Box and others. Unfortunately, space doesn't permit a detailed listing of wines that best complement those quickie meals.

Maybe we can come up with a "dine at home takeout wine list." Only those 21 and over need reply.

Vick Knight is a former Regional Director of Les Amis du Vin, the international wine appreciation society. He may lose his accreditation as a result of this column. Contact him at (951) 244-4664.

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